4-18-03
What is Intensive grazing and
how do you do it?
Daniel Linden, BS
Camelid Nutrition Graduate Student
Ohio State University
Management Intensive Grazing (MIG) is a wonderful concept. It was used
in the 1950's to some success and has been used in New Zealand with very
good success. The concept is that by intensifying the manual labor of a
grazing system one can increase the animal stocking density by 20-30%. And
reduce cost by allowing animals to harvest their own forage instead of the
farmer harvesting the forage for them.
MIG involves rotating animals through a series of paddocks that have
optimal growth of forage in each pasture as the animals enter. This
generally uses 8-9 inch tall grass that is in the growth stages and NOT in
the flowering or bud stages. Once a plant has gone to flower it is too
mature and way too fibrous for good nutrition. The animals are allowed to
graze the plants down to 2-3 inches and are then moved to the next pasture.
Some systems allow crias or tuis (weanlings) to graze the new pasture first
like a creep grazing.
The key to MIG is to have proper sized pastures that allow the grasses
to regrow before the animals are put back in this pasture. This requires 3-4
weeks depending on the season. This also reduces some of the parasite burden
because it removes the animals from pastures with new feces that will
contain parasite eggs. It doesn't remove the problems totally, but may
reduce the problem.
The number of paddocks and the size depends on many things:
How often you are going to move them? Sheep and cattle are moved
every 3-7 days. Dairy cattle 2 times / day.
How fast does you forage grow? Summer slump will slow down
growth and reduce the speed that you can rotate
them.
Do you have rapidly maturing plants that go to seed before you can rotate the
animals? If so you need to mow the grass to keep it young enough for the
animals to digest. Excess in spring and fall can actually be mowed and made into
hay since there is so much of it.
Each paddock size will be determined by the lay of the land. Try to make
each pasture a 1:1 or 1:2 size ration. A pasture that is 100 ft x 300 ft will
not get good grazing in the back because the animals won't want to walk that
far. Also every paddock needs to have a water source that is easily accessible.
Animals graze closer to water sources. If they walk a long distance to grass and
water they won't utilize the pasture well.
As far as what plants to use this is a sticky situation. This depends on
your soil conditions. Legumes are essential. Clovers and alfalfa are
commonly used, but clovers do better in wet soil than alfalfa. Also keep the
% legume below 25%. High legumes can cause bloat and weight problems.
Grasses are easier. Timothy is up to you. I don't care for it because it is
pain to establish and keep alive. I know some people that won't have
pasture or hay without it. That is up to you. Orchard grass is great, if you
get a new slower maturing variety. Kentucky bluegrass is hardy and just
keeps coming back. Some people recommend fescues and rye grasses, but I do not.
There are too many problems with these types of grasses that I feel it
is better to be safe than sorry. Brome grass is nice for lots of growth.
Avoid the Sudan grass crosses. They can produce prussic acid that is harmful.
David E Anderson, DVM, MS
http://www.internationalcamelidinstitute.org
![]()